A Journey through flavours

 

As I sit by the window, the aroma of freshly brewed chai wafts through the air, blending with the nostalgic fragrance of the spices I collected from the streets of different cities. Today is World Food Day, a day that means much more to me than just celebrating food. For me, it's a chance to reflect on the countless culinary journeys I've taken, each dish a portal into the heart of a place and its people. Food, especially the kind that’s lesser known yet so deeply rooted in culture, has always fascinated me. There’s something about traveling to a destination just to savour a dish that’s both unique and tied to its origins & I’ve always enjoyed uncovering the stories behind these dishes.

Travelling has always been more than just ticking off places on a map for me. I’m a firm believer in the idea that a destination’s true essence can be discovered through its food especially when it’s a dish that’s lesser known but packed with history. This thought has taken me through cities, towns & villages across India, where I've sought out dishes that are not only delicious but tell a story. Along the way I’ve found small, hidden eateries, learned the history of ancient recipes & savoured flavours I’ll never forget. These weren't the usual staples that the world knows; instead they were special in their rarity & significance. Many of these were born out of local ingredients & perfected in hidden kitchen. Let me take you through this journey, with few of my favourite culinary adventures.

1. Udupi, Karnataka: Goli Baje, Mangalore Buns & Gadbad Ice cream
Udupi, known for its temples and Udupi cuisine. While everyone raves about the masala dosa here, I wanted something off the beaten path. That’s when I found goli baje and Mangalore buns at the iconic Mitra Samaj, a tiny eatery that sits in the shadow of the Sri Krishna Temple and the culinary invention that revolutionised the town Gadbad Ice Cream.

Goli baje, also known as Mangalore bajji, is a deep fried snack made from maida, curd & spices. It originated in the coastal regions of Karnataka as an evening snack, often served with coconut chutney. The dish likely came about as a quick solution to using up leftover curd & flour, leading to its name "goli" meaning round in Kannada, representing its round, fluffy shape. Mangalore buns, on the other hand are deep fried puris made with overripe bananas, flour & sugar. It's believed to have originated in Udupi's Brahmin kitchens as a way to make use of bananas that were too ripe for consumption. Over time, these "buns" became a popular breakfast item, served with coconut chutney or even plain. Gadbad Ice Cream was invented in the 1970s at the Diana Hotel, this layered dessert of ice cream, jelly, fruits & nuts became an instant hit. The name itself ‘Gadbad’ is a reflection of the jumbled layers within, representing a ‘chaos’ of flavours, but one that comes together beautifully.

  

I remember sitting by the window at Mitra Samaj, with the fragrance of fried snacks wafting through the air. I ordered a plate of goli baje and Mangalore buns, intrigued by their unfamiliarity. The first bite of the goli baje was like biting into a cloud a savory, crisp-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside bite of perfection. But the Mangalore buns? They stole my heart. Slightly sweet with a hint of banana that was neither overwhelming nor too subtle, these buns were unlike anything I'd ever tasted. They were not dense like puris or bread but had a pillowy softness that made each bite feel indulgent. I closed my eyes and savored it slowly, feeling the combination of sweetness & richness warm my soul. Sitting in Diana Hotel, relishing the chaotic layers of the Gadbad, I couldn’t help but think of how innovation springs from the simplest of ideas. The owner once mentioned that the dish was created on a whim when ingredients were running out during peak season, and today, it’s a must-try for anyone passing through Udupi. The sun was setting and the quiet hum of temple bells in the distance only heightened the experience. In that moment, I realized how food could connect you to a place in ways that no monument or museum ever could.

2. Bangalore, Karnataka: Mavalli Tiffin Room (MTR) & Central Tiffin Room (CTR)
I couldn’t pass through South India without stopping in Bangalore, a city where old-world charm meets modernity. My destination was MTR (Mavalli Tiffin Room), a restaurant that has been serving traditional South Indian food since 1924. While MTR is famous for several dishes, it is the Rava Idli that caught my attention. The Rava Idli has an interesting origin story. During World War II, rice became scarce due to rationing, so MTR had to innovate. They substituted rava for rice in their idlis, creating a completely new dish. Today, Rava Idli is a staple in many South Indian households & restaurants, but MTR’s version remains the gold standard. The idlis are soft, crumbly & infused with the flavors of curry leaves, mustard seeds & cashews. They’re served with coconut chutney & sambar on the side. As I sat in the iconic restaurant, relishing the fluffy Rava Idlis, I couldn’t help but admire the ingenuity that led to their invention. It’s incredible how a shortage of one ingredient gave rise to something so enduring. The dish embodies the spirit of resilience & creativity, values that are as important in cooking as they are in life.

Another famous yet quite interesting eatery on the list was CTR a legendary spot in Bangalore, famous for its Benne Masala Dosa (Butter Masala Dosa). The dosa is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside & smeared generously with butter. But what makes this dosa special is its history. The dosa, as we know it today, originated in Karnataka & the benne (butter) version was an innovation by the cooks at CTR in the early 20th century. They believed that adding butter would make the dosa more indulgent & appealing to the British officers who frequented the city. Today, it's a beloved staple for locals & travellers alike. I walked into CTR early in the morning & the place was already packed. As I waited for my dosa, I could hear the sizzling of batter on hot griddles. When my plate arrived, I could smell the rich aroma of butter wafting through the air. The dosa was crispy & golden, with a generous dollop of potato masala inside. Every bite was a reminder of how food can be both comforting and luxurious at the same time. It’s no wonder this dish has been around for decades & I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s still here a century from now.

3. Madurai, Tamil Nadu: Kari Dosai and Jigarthanda
Madurai is often associated with its towering Meenakshi Amman Temple & buzzing energy, but as I walked through its streets, it wasn’t the architecture that drew me in it was the aroma of spices in the air. Madurai is a place where the old & the new meet & this harmony can be tasted in its local cuisine. While Madurai is known for its meat dishes, I found a hidden gem that serves a vegetarian take on one of its most famous dishes, the Kari Dosai. I discovered this at The Modern Restaurant, a nondescript eatery near the famous Meenakshi Amman Temple. The original Kari Dosai is a thick dosa topped with minced meat, but this vegetarian version replaces the meat with a spicy, flavorful mixture of finely chopped vegetables & lentils. The dosa itself is made slightly thicker than usual to hold the rich topping & it’s served with three different chutneys coconut, tomato & mint along with a side of sambar. The history of Kari Dosai is tied to the hunting culture of old Madurai, where hunters would cook meat with readily available ingredients. Over time, the dish evolved & now it’s a popular street food. What’s amazing is how this vegetarian twist retains the robust flavours while making the dish accessible to non-meat eaters like me.

Another unexpected haven is from the Famous Jigarthanda, a local yet quiet famous shop specially known for its Jigarthanda. A drink that’s as mysterious as it is refreshing. The name itself means "cooling the heart" & the drink is a concoction of almond gum, condensed milk & ice cream, topped off with a secret syrup. The story goes that Jigarthanda was introduced by the Muslim settlers in the city, who brought with them a recipe for a cooling drink to combat the scorching heat of Madurai. Over time, the locals adopted it, tweaked it & made it their own, giving it a more creamy texture & adding local ingredients. Today, it stands as one of Madurai's must-try items. I was skeptical at first. The idea of drinking something so thick and rich on a hot day seemed counterintuitive. But the moment I took a sip, I was sold. The almond gum added a chewy texture that contrasted beautifully with the creaminess of the milk. It was unlike anything I’d ever tasted before. As I stood outside the shop, sipping slowly, watching the city go about its day, I felt this strange sense of calm. Despite the chaos around me, this drink had a way of making everything slow down. Maybe that’s why it’s called "Jigarthanda" it really does cool you from within.

4. Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu: Kaipidi Karasev
Coimbatore, often known for its textile industry, also has a hidden gem when it comes to snacks. I found myself in Sri Krishna Sweets, famous for its Mysurpa, but my interest was piqued by a lesser known dish: Kaipidi Karasev. Kaipidi Karasev is a spicy, crunchy snack made from chickpea flour & deep fried into thin strands. The name "Kaipudi" means "handheld" in Tamil, reflecting how the snack is traditionally shaped by hand before frying.

As I took my first bite, the fiery flavor of red chili powder hit my taste buds, followed by the crunch that made it addictive. I chatted with the owner about the origin of this dish & he told me that it was invented in the kitchens of a local temple decades ago as a simple offering for the gods. Over time, it became a favorite among the devotees, especially for those who loved spice. Today, Kaipidi Karasev is sold in packets, carried by travellers across the state & enjoyed as a tea-time snack.

5. Pondicherry: Thenga Manga Sundal and Rose Milk
Pondicherry known for its French colonial architecture & serene beaches. But aside from the picturesque streets, I was curious about the local food. One evening, while wandering along the promenade, I stumbled upon a humble street vendor selling Thenga Manga Sundal. This dish is a simple stir-fry made from boiled chickpeas, grated coconut & raw mango. It’s often sold as a beach snack & the burst of tangy mango with the mild flavor of coconut makes it incredibly refreshing. The origins of Thenga Manga Sundal aren’t well documented, but it’s believed to have been a staple of coastal communities for centuries, as it’s easy to prepare & perfect for hot weather. I had mine from a vendor near Rock Beach the sea breeze & the chatter of locals created the perfect backdrop for this simple, yet delightful snack.

Another must-try in Pondicherry is Rose Milk, a nostalgic drink that’s been around for ages. Made with chilled milk & flavored with rose syrup, this drink is both refreshing & fragrant. I tried mine at the famous KBS Kofi Bar, a small café known for its beverages. The first sip took me back to childhood summers sweet, cooling & comforting. Pondicherry had been on my bucket list for years, but I never imagined my fondest memory would be of a street side drink. As I travelled through the states, I realised that food is not just about nourishment; it’s about culture, history & community. Each dish I encountered had its own unique story, a connection to the past & a place in the hearts of the people. On this World Food Day, I celebrate the beauty of the culinary experiences & the joy of discovering new flavors. Whether it’s a cup of filter coffee in Chennai or a steaming chai on the situ hills of Munnar, these experiences have left an indelible mark on my journey as a traveller.

And the best part? I know there’s so much more out there to explore.