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Badami - A Complete Traveller’s Tale

                      

 So, here’s how it all started. After scrolling endlessly through Instagram and feeling that familiar itch to escape the city madness, I stumbled upon this gem of a place called Badami, a town I had long heard about but never visited. The journey was as much about exploring the unknown as it was about connecting with history. This town is full of ancient caves, forgotten temples, and stories etched in stone it was like something straight out of a history book. So, without overthinking it (because when do I ever?), I booked my ticket on the Gadag Express and packed my bags. First things first, the Gadag Express is no Shatabdi, but it has its own charm. The journey started with the usual hustle at Dadar station. As the train chugged out of Mumbai, the city’s chaos slowly gave way to the quiet of the countryside. A warm plate of vada pav from a station vendor was my farewell to Mumbai—a last taste of the city before plunging into Karnataka’s historic heart. I settled into my seat, plugged in my earphones, and let the rhythmic clatter of the tracks lull me into a relaxed state. There's something special about train journeys the way they let you disconnect and just be in the moment. As the train crossed into Karnataka, the landscape transformed. Green fields, distant hills, and occasional glimpses of small villages it was like watching a painting come to life. I shared my compartment with a bunch of friendly folks one of whom was an old-timer who filled me in on some local legends of Badami, getting me even more excited about my destination.

Nestled in the heart of Karnataka, Badami is a hidden gem that is still yet to be explored. Originally known as Vatapi, was the capital of the Chalukyas from 540 to 757 AD. The town is famed for its rock-cut temples which stand as a brilliant example of the architectural brilliance of the Chalukya dynasty. These temples, carved into the sandstone hills surrounding the town, are a blend of Dravidian and Nagara styles and are adorned with intricate carvings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. Once the capital of the Chalukya dynasty is now a sleepy town brimming with stories waiting to be heard. Here's my travelogue—a guide and a memoir of my unforgettable experience in Badami.


How Many Days Required to Visit Badami
A minimum of three days is recommended to explore Badami thoroughly. This will give you enough time to visit all the major attractions, explore some of the lesser-known sites, and soak in the rich history and culture of the town.


Best Time to Visit Badami

The best time to visit Badami is from October to March when the weather is pleasant, making it ideal for exploring. The summer months (April to June) are scorchingly hot, with temperatures soaring above 35°C, while the monsoon season (July to September) while lush, can make the rocky terrain slippery.

Must-Visit Places in Badami

1. Badami Cave Temples: The iconic rock-cut temples, dedicated to Hindu deities and Jain Tirthankaras, were carved between the 6th and 8th centuries, and showcase exquisite carvings and intricate sculptures dedicated to Hindu deities. Don’t miss
Cave 1, featuring a stunning 18-armed Nataraja & Cave 3, which features a breathtaking image of Lord Vishnu.
Best Time to Visit: Morning (8:30 AM - 10:00 AM) to avoid the crowds and heat.
Entry Fee: ₹20 for Indians

2. Agastya Lake: This lake is believed to have healing powers and is surrounded by temples and caves. It’s named after the sage Agastya and adds a mystical aura to the landscape.
Best Time to Visit: Evening (5:00 PM - 6:30 PM) for a peaceful sunset view.
Entry Fee: Free.

3. Bhutanatha Group of Temples: These temples built between the 7th and 11th centuries, set against the backdrop of Agastya Lake, are a perfect example of Dravidian architecture. The reflections of the temples in the lake during sunrise are mesmerizing.

Best Time to Visit: Late afternoon (4:00 PM - 6:00 PM) for a serene experience by the Agastya Lake.

Entry Fee: Free.

4. Banashankari Temple: Just 5 km from Badami, this temple is dedicated to Goddess Banashankari, a form of Parvati. Built in the 7th century, it is a prominent pilgrimage site.

Best Time to Visit: Morning (7:00 AM - 9:00 AM) during the aarti.

Entry Fee: Free.

5. Badami Archaeological Museum: This museum houses an extensive collection of artifacts, sculptures, and inscriptions from the Chalukyan period and provides insights into the region's rich history.
Best Time to Visit: Morning (10:00 AM - 12:00 PM).

Entry Fee: ₹5.

6. Badami Fort: Perched atop a cliff, the fort offers panoramic views of Badami. It dates back to the Chalukyan era and was later occupied by the Vijayanagara Empire and Tipu Sultan. The fort offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding landscape. The trek to the top is steep but rewarding.

Best Time to Visit: Early morning (7:00 AM - 9:00 AM) for a cool climb.

Entry Fee: Free.


Lesser-Known Gems in and around Badami
1. Yallamma Devi Gudi: This ancient temple, dedicated to Goddess Yellamma, is located in a quiet corner of Badami. The temple is surrounded by myths and local legends, making it a fascinating place to visit.
Best Time to Visit: Sunrise.
Entry Fee: Free.

2. Sidlaphadi Cave: This is not just another cave but a prehistoric rock shelter. The journey to this spot is an adventure through rugged terrain, but the reward—a view of ancient rock art—is worth every step.
Best Time to Visit: Sunrise.
Entry Fee: Free.

3. Kappe Arabhatta Inscription: This lesser-known inscription, found near the Badami Caves, is a rare example of poetry written in Kannada. It dates back to the 7th century and is attributed to the famous poet Kappe Arabhatta.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning or evening
Entry Fee: Free

4. Mallikarjuna Temple: This 11th-century temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is a fine example of Chalukyan architecture. The temple’s intricate pillars and carvings are a visual delight.
Best Time to Visit: Morning (8:00 AM - 10:00 AM)
Entry Fee: Free

5. Mahakuta Group of Temples: Located a few kilometers from Badami,
Mahakata is a sacred site with a group of temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temples are surrounded by natural springs, and the cool water adds to the tranquility of the place.
Best Time to Visit: Morning
Entry Fee: Free

6. Lower Shivalaya: Built in the 7th century by the ancient Chalukyan dynasty, the Lower Shivalaya temple is part of a series of temples situated across the northern hill of Badami. This intricately carved rock-cut structure is perhaps the earliest and best-surviving example of the magnificence of the Dravida style in the early Chalukya architecture.
Beat Time to Visit: Morning (8:00 AM - 9:00 AM) for a quiet visit.
Entry Fee: Free.


7. Upper Shivalaya: Situated on top of the northern hill of Badami, the Upper Shivalaya is a fine example of the rock-cut architectural style of the ancient Chalukyan empire. Built in the 7th century, this impressive structure gives one a magnificent panoramic view of the town of Badami and the beautiful Agastya Lake.
Beat Time to Visit: During sunset for a mesmerzing view.
Entry Fee: Free.



8. Akka-Tangi Falls: A twin waterfall located in a secluded area near Badami. The pristine beauty and untouched nature make it worth the trek.
Best Time: Monsoon season.
Entry Fee: Free.

9. Bhootnath’s Hidden Caves: A series of unexplored caves near the Bhootnath Temple, believed to be ancient meditation sites. The caves are perfect for adventurous souls seeking solitude.
Best Time: Early morning.
Entry Fee: Free.


Must-Visit Restaurants & Must-Have Cuisines

1. Hotel Udupi Anand: A popular breakfast joint, Sri Krishna Bhavan serves soft idlis and crispy vadas that are sure to fuel your day of exploration.

Must-Have Cuisine: Idli Vada


2. Hotel Brahmi: Start your day with their authentic South Indian breakfast idli, dosa, and strong filter coffee.

3. Banashree Hotel: A local favorite, Banashree Hotel serves traditional Karnataka dishes with a home-cooked feel.
Must-Have Cuisines: Bisi Bele bath, Ragi Mudde.


4. Hotel Mayura Chalukya: This budget-friendly restaurant is part of the Karnataka State Tourism chain and offers reliable and tasty meals.

Must-Have Cuisines: Veg thali, Puliyogare.

Budget-Friendly Accommodation
1. Hotel Badami Court: A well-maintained property with spacious rooms, offering modern amenities and a restaurant that serves local cuisine. The hotel is conveniently located near major attractions.

2. KSTDC Hotel Mayura Chalukya: Managed by the Karnataka State Tourism Department, this hotel offers basic yet clean accommodations with the added advantage of a restaurant on-site.

3. Clarks Inn Badami: This mid-range hotel offers modern amenities, comfortable rooms, and good food. It's located close to the Badami caves, making it a convenient base for exploring the area.

4. Krishna Heritage: A heritage-style hotel that offers a blend of traditional architecture and modern comfort but it’s a slightly upscale option.


Things to buy from Badami

1. Ilkal Saree:
Famous for their unique patterns and textures, Ilkal sarees are a must-buy for anyone visiting Badami.

3. Stone Carvings: Replicas of the famous Badami sculptures, made by local artisans, make for a unique souvenir.

4. Sandalwood Artifacts: Karnataka is famous for its sandalwood, and you can find beautifully carved pieces in Badami.

5. Chalukyan Coins: Replicas of ancient Chalukyan coins make for a unique souvenir, reflecting the region’s rich history.

Folklores of Badami
The sandstone cliffs and ancient temples aren't just architectural marvels; they are the keepers of stories passed down through generations. Here are six such unique folklore stories.

1. The Curse of Vatapi and Ilvala:
The four caves, carved into the cliffs, are said to be the creation of a demon named Vatapi. The story goes that Vatapi, and his brother Ilvala used to trick travelers into a feast, where Vatapi would transform into a goat and Ilvala would serve his flesh. After the meal, Ilvala would call out his brother’s name, and Vatapi would re-emerge from the travelers’ stomachs, killing them. However, when the great sage Agastya arrived, he saw through the ruse and ate the goat, and when Ilvala called out, the sage declared, "Vatapi Jirnam!"—Vatapi is digested! The caves are a reminder of Agastya's wisdom and victory over the evil. This tale is said to have given Badami its ancient name, Vatapi.

2. The Divine Sculptor’s Final Masterpiece:
One of the most fascinating stories is that of a divine sculptor named Vishwakarma, who was said to have carved the statues in the Badami caves. According to legend, Vishwakarma was tasked by the gods to create the most beautiful statues the world had ever seen. He worked day and night, and upon finishing, he presented the statues to the gods. However, the gods, jealous of his talent, blinded him so that he could never create anything as beautiful again. It is said that his final masterpiece, an unfinished statue, still lies hidden in the caves, and those who find it will be blessed with his divine skill.

3. The Guardian of the Caves:

The Badami caves are not just marvels of ancient rock-cut architecture but are also believed to be guarded by a spirit. This guardian, known as Kalleshwara, is said to be the protector of the caves, ensuring that no harm comes to them. The legend goes that Kalleshwara was a warrior who, after a lifetime of battles, sought peace and became a hermit in the caves. Upon his death, his spirit merged with the rocks, and he has since guarded the caves from invaders and natural disasters. Pilgrims still offer prayers to Kalleshwara before entering the caves, seeking his blessings for a safe passage.

4. The Tale of Banashankari:

The Banashankari temple near Badami is dedicated to a fierce form of the goddess Parvati. According to local folklore, the goddess appeared in a dream to a Chalukya king, instructing him to build a temple in her honor to protect the region from drought. The temple was built, and the region flourished under the goddess's protection. To this day, the annual Banashankari Jatre festival is celebrated with great fervor, and it is believed that the goddess herself descends to bless her devotees during the festivities.

5. The Legend of the Chalukyan Crown:
Long ago, when Badami was the capital of the mighty Chalukya dynasty, a mystical crown was said to hold the power of the kingdom. Crafted by the gods themselves, it was believed that whoever wore the crown would be invincible. However, the crown could only be worn by one with a pure heart. Legend has it that King Pulakeshin II, one of the greatest rulers of the Chalukyas, was the only one worthy of this honor. The crown vanished after his death, and some say it is still hidden somewhere in the caves of Badami, awaiting the return of a true king.

6. The Lost City of Vatapi:
According to ancient texts, Vatapi, another name for Badami, was once a grand city, far more magnificent than what remains today. The city was said to be home to treasures beyond imagination, hidden deep within its underground chambers. However, when the city was sacked by invaders, these treasures were lost to time. Some believe that the entrance to these chambers is concealed in one of the unexplored caves of Badami, waiting to be discovered by a brave soul. The lost city continues to be a subject of
fascination and mystery.

Each of these stories adds a layer of depth to Badami’s heritage. Listening to these folklore's, I felt as though I was treading on the very threads of these tales, woven into the fabric of time.

Badami may not be as popular as some other tourist spots, but that’s what makes it special. It’s a place where history isn’t just preserved in museums but is part of everyday life. The history, the stories, the people, and the food all come together to create a travelogue that’s unique, interesting, and deeply enriching. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, a photographer, or simply in search of tranquility, this town offers something special. If you’re looking for a place that’s off the beaten path, rich in history, and filled with experiences that touch your soul, Badami is calling your name. Pack your bags, hop on the Gadag Express, and let Badami work its charm on you.



Comments

  1. I have seen and read many blogs, but I liked this blog with the most beautiful style, in short, proper writing, information about every historical place, photography, great art, I was overwhelmed to read those architectural sculptures.
    I am very grateful to you Pranjal...✒️👌🏼♥️

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